MICHAEL: Hello and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra and, in this show, I get to tell you everything I love about my home country the best way I know how, through music.

Today, we're in the capital of Ireland, Dublin, where there's a fanatic football fan base.

Now, if in your head you're converting football to soccer, stop it.

In this case, we're talking American football in Ireland.

Then we'll get to work by catching and then cooking our dinner with a celebrated chef.

Finally, we'll meet a craftsman with a skill to take a broken chalice from the 1600s and bring it back to its former glory.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by- ♪ ANNOUNCER: The music, the folklore, and the hospitality.

It's all in Ireland.

ANNOUNCER: Since 1932, CIE Tours has welcomed travelers to discover Ireland's rolling green landscapes, cherished traditions, and Irish hospitality, creating memories that last a lifetime.

CIE Tours, where every journey becomes a story.

♪ MICHAEL: Dublin is the Irish capital, a modern city built on a long history of the Vikings, the Normans, and the English.

This city has been a hub of trade, revolution, and literature.

Behind me, the River Liffey.

It flows through the city, dividing north and south.

The Liffey has been central to Dublin's development, connecting the people and commerce for centuries, as it still does today.

♪ (birds calling) Located about half a mile from the Liffey on one of its many tributaries, we find Aviva Stadium.

Normally home to rugby and soccer, for one weekend in August, it hosts American football.

(crowd sounds) Uachtarán Wintersteen, céad míle fáilte go Baile Átha Cliath.

President Wintersteen, welcome to Dublin.

I am so delighted and a little bit overwhelmed that the president of Iowa State University is here in my home country.

It's a combination of my two worlds, Iowa and Ireland.

How does it feel to be leading Iowa State in this very, very special occasion?

WENDY: Well, it's such an honor, an honor to lead Iowa State in this set of events.

But- but I have to tell you, what has been so special is the welcoming reception that we've received.

Everyone is so friendly and willing to help.

MICHAEL: So, let's talk about what you think about Dublin.

I know that, as the president, you're kind of carrying the university on your back here, so you're a busy lady.

What do you think of the town?

WENDY: Well, first of all, I have to begin by just saying the history.

I've been in some extraordinary buildings.

We have traveled along streets that speak to the, again, history of this great city and of this great nation.

So that's been fascinating.

But in the end, it always comes down to the people, and everyone has, again, been so welcoming, so open-arms to our visitors from Iowa.

So I think that's the message.

Come visit Dublin and you will have a fabulous experience.

MICHAEL: Well, we'll have to get you back to Ireland soon.

Maybe when your tenure is over and you can finally come over and put your feet up and enjoy the country outside of Dublin.

WENDY: Well, I would look forward to that.

I think it is truly an extraordinary country and I've heard some wonderful stories about our alums that have traveled all over the country in the week ahead of the game.

♪ MICHAEL: To get the full story around this, let's go back a few days.

I'm here on Iowa State University campus just a couple of days before the game in Dublin.

Now, as an independent member of the press, I'm not really here for the football, you see, I'm here for the music.

♪ MICHAEL: Christian, we're here.

It's an exciting time because the band is prepping for pretty much a one-off trip to Dublin.

The trip of a lifetime.

I can't imagine what's involved.

Can you kind of walk me through from day one, how do you prepare for such an enormous band to cross the Atlantic?

CHRISTIAN: Yeah.

This has been a staggeringly difficult and laborious process from day one.

And we've been planning this for it feels like two years now.

And I remember the first time that our athletic director sat down and said, hey, we think we're going to go to Ireland, and we want to bring the band.

And I thought, oh my god.

Oh my goodness.

Like all the things would start to spiral.

We got to get the instruments, we got to pick music.

Who are we playing?

What are we doing?

MICHAEL: Now, word has it that you're going to do a piece with Kansas State.

CHRISTIAN: Yeah.

Well, we get one shot at this.

We get one practice together.

We're going to actually meet in Missouri, kind of halfway between Iowa and Kansas.

MICHAEL: Oh.

CHRISTIAN: And we're gonna get together, we're gonna learn the show, and hope that it all sticks together and hope we remember it.

And then we're gonna go our separate ways and learn our individual pre-games, start the semester, and then go over there, and we've got a 30- minute practice together with them.

So we're gonna run it once or twice and hope that we remember correctly how to do this.

And then we'll do it live in front of 60,000 people.

MICHAEL: So, when you're going to a country like Ireland defined by music, how do you make your music choices for Dublin?

CHRISTIAN: Yeah, I mean, that's a great question because I certainly, I don't think we should try to go over there and say, here's how you play Irish music because- MICHAEL: And we wouldn't want you to, either.

CHRISTIAN: Yeah, so we're definitely not going to do that.

And we really thought about it from- well, what you really want to see is an American football game and specifically a college American football game.

And the bands are such a huge part of that.

So, what would we play?

Well, we'd play American music, we play rock music, we'd play iconic bands.

MICHAEL: I guess you're only going to be there for a couple of days.

Do you have any time off whatsoever?

CHRISTIAN: There's a few opportunities to see a little bit of sightseeing.

They're going to take us on a double-decker bus tour all around the city and we've got some exciting things planned for that.

But mostly it's kind of a business trip.

(crowd sounds) MICHAEL: After a weekend in Dublin and very many pubs, after a day of tailgating, we are finally here in Aviva Stadium and the place is electric.

(crowd sounds) ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Just a reminder that I'm a totally independent member of the press, but we won.

♪ MICHAEL: Séamus Gill is a renowned Irish silversmith known for combining traditional techniques with modern artistic vision, designing pieces for everyone from the prime minister of Ireland to Pope Francis.

In the silversmith shop, the tools these days are refined, but the same skill and patience from centuries ago is what still defines the craft of silversmithing.

In the Irish language, the silversmith is called a gabha geal, which means brightsmith, because the artisans work with gold, silver, and bronze, as opposed to the blacksmith, who works with iron.

♪ MICHAEL: Séamus, I've been wanting to meet you for a long time because I think that you are the quintessential Irish jewelry designer.

When I look at your work, I can't quite figure out why I think this, but I look at it and I see Ireland.

Maybe you can help me explain that today.

SÉAMUS: I suppose, in- in some ways, my work is- a lot of it is influenced and based by early Irish Iron Age work, Bronze Age work, and those shapes and how the metal flows.

Like- because they were made by silversmiths, they just had a sheet of metal, a hammer, and an anvil, and that's the way I work today.

MICHAEL: All right, let's talk about scale because you're- you know, you'll make rings, but you'll also make great pieces of art that are on display around the world.

So- so, how does that happen?

What do you start with?

SÉAMUS: I suppose the basic process is the same.

So I'm just hitting metal with a hammer.

Now, if it's a small piece, it's going to be jewelry.

If it's larger, it's tabletop, it's silverware.

And then bigger again, it's sculpture.

MICHAEL: So, your inspirations, you know, you mentioned the Bronze Age and the Iron Age.

Does- does modern life influence you, or are you connected to the past?

SÉAMUS: I am connected to the past.

(laughs) MICHAEL: Oh, yeah.

SÉAMUS: Like when I see the work that's in the museum, like, this is 2000 years old, I know the person who made that is making it the same- exact same way as I would.

Recently, for the local church, they had a chalice that was broken, and they asked me if I could fix it.

The chalice was from the 1620s, but when you're working with that, I was working with it for over a year, and over the time, you're getting close to how the person who made the chalice, what they went through.

You're discovering the pieces that went wrong for them, the pieces that they had difficulty doing, and the pieces that- I don't know how they did it, but there is definitely a step through the past.

MICHAEL: I love that you're actually taking work from the past and ensuring that it'll be the same and look the same in the next couple of hundred years.

That must give you some sort of satisfaction to know that you are the person who is connecting the past to the future.

SÉAMUS: Yeah, yeah.

No, it's- it's very much just keeping it all alive and keeping it there, you know, preserving it.

But yet, you're still starting new and building on new work, as well.

♪ MICHAEL: Séamus, when I walked into the room, the first thing I saw was that beautiful piece right over there.

And for me, it looks like an ancient torque here.

It looks like it comes from a couple of thousand years back.

And you indeed can confirm that's what the influence is.

SÉAMUS: Yes, it came from early Celtic torques.

This is an example of a copy of one that I made.

But you can see the twist and that deep curve that- the curves go in two directions.

So, on the bangle, there's the curves that go around your hand, but I've put this other curve into it.

MICHAEL: And that's a combination of silver and gold?

SÉAMUS: Yeah, it's gold plating on the surface.

MICHAEL: I love how the curves just catch the light on it, much like the torque.

♪ MICHAEL: We're here on the grounds of Howth Castle with a history that dates back to the late 1100s.

First built during the Norman Conquest, it has been added to and renovated over eight centuries.

That's what gives us this unique visual.

We can actually see the living architectural record today of just how tastes change over time.

♪ MICHAEL: Davy, it's hard to believe that we are indeed in Dublin in this beautiful... Ireland with Michael's resident historian, Davy Holden, knows the history of this rather unique castle.

♪ DAVY: Howth is an interesting place, first of all because of the name.

So, as you know, most place names in Ireland come from the Irish language.

Most of them were either translated or anglicized to English.

But Howth, like Wicklow, and like Waterford, they come from the original Viking name.

MICHAEL: There is nothing Viking looking about what is directly behind you.

Can you tell me a bit more about it?

DAVY: It's not a Viking castle, no, you're correct.

However, we are in Howth, which is steeped in Viking history.

So they are involved in the story.

So, in 1169, the Normans arrive in Ireland.

So, the family that founded this house would have arrived in or around that time, maybe the early '70s, early 1170s.

A battle took place between that Norman family and the Vikings.

And that battle took place on Saint Lawrence's Day, the 10th of August, 1177.

Hence why the family that actually won that battle, they changed their last name to St Lawrence.

So this castle was founded and owned by the St Lawrences for over 800 years.

MICHAEL: So, tell me about the origins.

How far back does the actual castle go?

DAVY: So, this wouldn't have been the original castle.

Back after that battle in the 1170s, they built their original castle in Howth village.

Then they moved to this location about 1235.

And the oldest part of this castle dates to about 1450.

♪ MICHAEL: Donal, I have been a fan of yours for many years now.

You have saved my life in my kitchen back in the Midwest so many times.

DONAL: I can't believe this.

MICHAEL: I know, I know, but it's true.

It's the truth.

You and your recipes have literally saved my life in the moment in the kitchen when I'm trying to figure out what to cook.

DONAL: Well, that is the highest compliment that I've had all day now, Michael, thank you so much.

And it's- it's thrilling to bring you here in my hometown of Howth.

Did you know I was from here?

MICHAEL: I had no idea.

I love Howth.

It's- it's a hop, skip, and a jump from Dublin.

And I just didn't realize that you were a Howth boy.

So I thought, if we could bring you the Howth boy and all of these beautiful local Howth ingredients together, we'd have the perfect afternoon on a boat.

DONAL: Well, I thought a little Irish-style picnic, Howth style, is the way to go forward.

So, I've laid out a few ingredients for you here, and I want to give you a bit of a taste of the terroir here, you know, the sort of lovely sense of Ireland all on a plate.

So, we have beautiful Carlingford oysters, we have a gorgeous Cooleeney cheese with some chutney.

And, best of all, only a hop, skip, and a jump from here is a fabulous island that produces gorgeous whiskey.

So, Lambay Whiskey is on the menu alongside some oysters.

Right, well, there's one thing to say while we're sat here at sea.

Sláinte MICHAEL: Sláinte to you.

DONAL: Cheers.

♪ MICHAEL: Viewers will know that I ate my first oyster about two years ago.

DONAL: Are you serious?

MICHAEL: Yeah.

Now, I'd like to point out that I've made up for lost time.

DONAL: Okay.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

Because I love them.

DONAL: So, even if you have made up for lost time, I'm going to give you the best one.

Now, the best tip I can give you is use the sharp knife.

All you're going to do is slowly move that around until you've loosened the top shell, and what you should be left with is a spectacular, beautiful little Irish oyster.

Now, what I would suggest, when you're having oysters, have it neat as the way it is.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

DONAL: And then, literally, you can build with a mignonette.

You could add a little bit of Tabasco or a little bit of hot sauce.

Yeah.

Keep it simple.

MICHAEL: I'm not one for- for a multitude of flavors with it.

I love that simple taste of the ocean.

DONAL: Did we loosen it enough?

He's getting a proper mouthful.

(laughs) MICHAEL: Delicious, clean, the ocean.

How did you get to the point where you are now the TV celebrity chef here in Ireland?

(laughs) MICHAEL: The go-to chef.

How did that happen?

DONAL: I suppose my love of food came from my mum and dad.

My grandmother was an amazing home cook.

So I grew up really with home cooking at the heart of it.

And for me, that was something that translated.

I started from a food blog and then I went from a food blog to the books, to the TV.

And I'm here still doing it.

So I'm counting my blessings.

MICHAEL: All right, let's get back to the oysters.

DONAL: To the oysters, yes.

So, look, I would always say, I'm a big proponent of- of Irish food and we're in a really good place for Irish food at this time of the- part of the world.

You know, we've come through kind of that influence of French cooking and all sorts, and now we have a real taste.

If you go and look in Irish pantries now, you have really great, interesting ingredients to play with.

But also the terroir we talked about, like the cheeses, they're really a taste of Ireland on a plate.

And I think that's what I get most excited about.

MICHAEL: We- we have an identity now for our cooking.

We always kind of borrowed from everyone else for a while, but now we know and we're very confident.

I always tell the people who come to- to Ireland on any of my vacations that the highlight of their tour will be the food.

DONAL: That's exactly it.

MICHAEL: So, tell me, tell me about what else we can throw in there to mix it up with the oysters.

DONAL: What I wanted to show you because this is one of the key things, especially- you've come to Ireland at the prime moment of the year.

I have gorgeous little coriander heads and beautiful fennel heads to- you taste that oyster with that little hit of that fennel, and it is spectacular.

It's the little fennel.

MICHAEL: Fennel is my favorite flavor in the world.. DONAL: Is it?

MICHAEL: Without a doubt.

Hands down.

I say it every time.

I'm all in.

DONAL: Not only looks beautiful but it tastes fantastic as well.

Isn't that a little flavor sensation?

MICHAEL: Just a little hint of it there to highlight that- oh, that oyster is so good, DONAL: So good.

You're making me jealous.

I'm gonna have to go in for one here now as well.

MICHAEL: Don't choke yourself.

DONAL: You know, this is why oysters are a real taste of Ireland.

It's that saline hit.

You get those wonderful flavors that come through.

They're buttery and velvety.

But the best part is, like we said, you don't need too much, those beautiful little fennel, especially at this time of year.

We're- we're in the middle of June, and it's got this gorgeous little flowers that you can pop over the top and it's spectacular.

♪ (seagulls calling) MICHAEL: Outside Dublin, a short 20-minute boat ride from Howth Harbour brings us to this magical spot, Ireland's Eye.

It's a relaxing trip for visitors and for locals alike.

The island remains uninhabited.

Well, sort of.

Those right there are gannets, always putting on a captivating show, and all of you at home are especially lucky this is not a smell-o-vision.

♪ (seagulls calling) Shane, it's not often I'm speechless.

I had no idea this existed.

Shane O'Doherty of Ireland's Eye Ferries is a Howth coastal tour guide that gets you up close and personal with marine life and panoramic views.

Tell me about these beautiful creatures.

SHANE: Well, we're on the back of Ireland's Eye, and you can't see it from shore.

And these birds all keep away from people.

Now, you can see the geology.

It's 500 million years old and each layer is a story of a million years.

Like the pages of an old book or the rings on a tree.

And each year, the razorbills, the guillemots, and the puffins come back from their solitary maritime life to where they were born, and they stay for about three months to make their babies in the super abundance of our summer light.

Also, you can see the gannet, which is maybe my favorite.

Armored skull, double eyelids, beautiful yellow head.

This whole different engineering in their wings, which allows them to fold them straight back so they can dive from 100 meters and hit the water at 100 miles an hour, which they do until their eyelids wear out and they go blind.

And then they die.

That's all the drama that's right here.

And the thing about it is you're twenty- you know, twenty kilometers from a European capital city center, and it's like humanity never even existed.

That's what I like most about here.

♪ MICHAEL: So, tell me about the fairly surprising tower right behind me.

SHANE: So, Michael, this is a relic of the Napoleonic Wars.

In about 1795, Napoleon was busy sharing his liberté, égalité, and fraternité throughout Europe.

And he had 200,000 men backing him up when he offered it to the English.

And he said, England, just surrender and we will save all the bloodshed.

And the English in their English way, said, we're ready for you.

And Napoleon said, yes, but if I go to Ireland, a million angry Irish men will join my cause for liberté, égalité, and fraternité.

And we will take you from the derrière.

Are you ready for that?

And the English went, actually, no.

And so they built 28 of these towers in about six years between kind of Bray and maybe Drogheda up the coast.

And it's the Dublin coastal defenses.

And they had a big gun on top and, as a defense system, it was like a kind of a, you know, Star Wars, Skynet thing.

And either it worked because Napoleon never came, or he was bluffing in the first place.

♪ MICHAEL: At the time those forts were being built for the Napoleonic Wars, both the French and the British were using flutes for signaling commands on the battlefield.

While flutes of bone date back to prehistoric times, by the 1800s, wooden flutes, also called fifes, were in use because of their loud sound, able to pierce through the noise of battle.

Here's Iarla Sweeney with a much less shrill example.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around Dublin city.

I'm Michael Londra, and I hope to see you next time on Ireland With Michael.

But for now, cheers.

Sláinte.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of the Ireland with Michael DVD, Seasons 1 and 2 or Seasons 3 and 4, with bonus concert footage is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael, a musical journey CD with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

The Ireland with Michael companion travel book, featuring places to visit as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by- ♪ ANNOUNCER: The music, the folklore, and the hospitality.

It's all in Ireland.

ANNOUNCER: Since 1932, CIE Tours has welcomed travelers to discover Ireland's rolling green landscapes, cherished traditions, and Irish hospitality, creating memories that last a lifetime.

CIE Tours, where every journey becomes a story.

MICHAEL: Okay, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-wavin'!

♪ In my heart, its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving ♪ Ever tender That's it!

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun, your smile has shone ♪ Go on, Wexford!

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪ ♪