- [Announcer] Production funding for "Outside: Beyond the Lens" provided by: visit Fresno County, home to unique attractions, California's fifth largest city, and easy access to three nearby national parks.

By Advance Beverage Company, serving Bakersfield and Kern County for over 50 years.

By Hedrick's Chevrolet.

- We are proud to support the spirit of travel in each of us.

Every journey has a first step.

Adventures start here.

- [Announcer] By Hodge's Electric, Inc. Over five decades of delivering innovative solutions for residential, agricultural, and battery storage systems.

By the Penstar Group, promoting opportunity and growth for the future.

By Central California's Valley Children's Healthcare, futures worth fighting for.

By A-Plus Signs, we never stop innovating for you.

And by Valley Air Conditioning and Repair, family-owned and trusted for over 50 years.

Proud to support public television and the wonders of travel.

(meditative music) - [Jeff] It's been a practice in these stone walls for nearly 400 years.

Intricate, delicate, painstakingly methodical.

And now a UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity designation.

The skill and toil it takes to create agave laceworks by the Benedictine nuns on Croatia's island of Hvar is something rarely seen or photographed.

But we've been given extraordinary access to witness this sacred process in the monastery and Baroque church of St. Anthony here in Hvar Town.

(dramatic music) This is one of many hidden treasures on the island of Hvar.

Well-known for its full throttle nightlife and international flair, this is a place regularly listed as one of the top islands on earth to visit.

(singer vocalizing) But we've come here to reveal a side of Hvar beyond the glitz and glamour, where turquoise waters lead to adventure, and to people with generational stories of life on the sea, and the traditional foods that celebrate it.

- So the fishermen, they have always on the boat some fish, and some prawns, an onion, potatoes, some olive oil, some wine.

- [Jeff] Hvar is history, and art, and of accomplishments by its people that have changed the world.

- He figured out a way how to use fingerprints in ID, solving the first case in 1892.

A brutal murder of a mother killing two of her kids.

- [Jeff] And where a legacy of growing thrives on ancient fields.

The mastery of making what these trees provide passed on to new masters who live by the old ways.

You're an olive oil maker.

- Yes, olive oil.

- [Jeff] And you're an award-winning olive oil maker.

- [Toma] Yes.

- [Jeff] They say a picture is worth a thousand words.

But if that's true, then Hvar is a masterpiece of endless chapters.

Each sunset, each crashing wave, each quiet moment telling a story only the lens can truly capture.

When you travel the world becomes a smaller place.

When you explore with friends like mine who share a love of photography, destinations come to life.

(jet roaring) (Dave laughing) We tell the stories of travel with our cameras, capturing the wonders of this world in every frame.

Day one of filming on the island and it's like crazy.

But on every trip, the unplanned moments we film are the ones we remember the most.

Jordan, good to meet you brother.

- [Jordan] Good to meet you too, man.

- [Jeff] Now join David Boomer, Zack Allen, Jon Neely, and me, Jeff Aiello as we set out on a new journey to discover the people, places, and food that all make travel life's neverending adventure.

This is "Outside: Beyond the Lens."

(rock music) (gentle music) The sunrise rises once again over the Adriatic, casting that familiar golden glow across the island of Hvar.

In the first part of our journey here, we stepped back in time, wandering the ancient stone streets of Stari Grad and Hvar Town, and exploring the remarkable Stari Grad Plain, one of six UNESCO-protected assets on the island, where farmers still tend to fields laid out by the Greeks more than 2,400 years ago.

(birds singing) Along the way, it hasn't just been the island's history that's left its mark, it's been the people, the kindness, warmth, and genuine hospitality we've felt from those who call Hvar home has added something unexpected and unforgettable to this trip.

(glasses clinking) Now it's time to slow down and soak it all in; to understand more deeply why Hvar has long been an important crossroads in the Adriatic, shaped by centuries of sailors, traders, farmers, and storytellers.

Yes, today it draws the rich and famous to its shores.

Its harbors busy with yachts, and its streets alive with nightlife.

But beyond the glitz, beyond the glamour, Hvar holds a much deeper beauty.

Now we uncover the heart of the island, its connection to the sea, and the people who have, generation after generation, kept its soul alive.

(intense music) (waves lapping) Just a short distance off the southern coast of Hvar, scattered like a string of emeralds across the Adriatic, lie the Pakleni Islands.

The name, rooted in the Croatian word for the ancient pine resin once harvested here, hints at their long history and connection to the people of Hvar.

For centuries, these small islands have served as a quiet refuge for fishermen, sailors, and travelers.

But today, getting over to the Pakleni Islands is a little rough.

- [Zack] I'm leavin' my shoes on because they're water shoes.

- We're gonna kind of go with the waves.

I see what Petko's doing now.

We're gonna go with the waves, with the wind waves, so that we're surfing 'em and not really fighting 'em.

And then we'll get around the back of these Pakleni Islands, which will provide a nice break for us.

Today the Pakleni Islands have become a favorite for boaters and adventurers from around the world.

Their sheltered coves, hidden beaches, and crystal clear waters are irresistible, whether you come by sailboat, motor yacht, or kayak.

And while the energy of Hvar town is just a few miles away, out here you find a different rhythm.

One shaped by the wind, the sea, and the quiet beauty of the Adriatic.

Just like that, we are transported into a another beautiful Adriatic sea paradise here.

Completely protected bay, very little wind, very little waves, some obvious luxury yachts, and some big sailing catamaran yachts, and Petko's gonna drop us off here.

- So do you have a reservation for lunch in some restaurant?

- [Jeff] Yeah.

- In which?

- [Jeff] Meneghello.

- Meneghello, yeah.

- [Jeff] Meneghello.

As Petko slows the boat and we slip deeper into Vinogradishce Bay, the first thing that stops us is the water.

Impossibly clear, revealing every stone and ripple on the sea floor below.

It's that kind of water that almost doesn't seem real, shifting between shades of turquoise and deep blue, shimmering in the changing light.

The bay holds a collection of sailing yachts and pleasure craft, their reflections mirrored in the calm waters of the bay.

This is a quieter corner of the Pakleni Islands, well-sheltered from the winds and waves.

Petko drops us off on a dock and will return in a few hours to bring us back to Hvar.

He's left us with a kayak, paddle, and life vest.

A simple gift that will soon come in handy.

Gonna get our gear ready right now, and then we're gonna send David out for a little kayaking adventure.

You know, David never gets to do fun stuff.

So today, David, today's David's day.

David, today's your day.

- [David] What's up, bud?

- Well, you're gonna get to do some fun stuff right now.

- [David] Yeah.

- [Jeff] We're gonna send you out in the kayak.

We're gonna film you with the drone.

You're gonna be out there just cruising around- - Paddlin' around.

- [Jeff] Maybe getting invited on the back of a motor yacht for a mimosa.

You never know what's gonna happen out there.

(David chuckling) (gentle music) The Pakleni Islands form a chain of rocky, forested jewels stretching across the Adriatic, forming a natural breakwater for Hvar Town to the north.

Pine resin, once gathered here to seal the holes of ancient wooden ships, is a subtle reminder of the island's long relationship with the sea and those who've navigated it for centuries.

(breathtaking music) In these moments, you start to understand why these islands have always been a refuge of sorts.

A haven for people looking for something real, something peaceful.

And as David glides back to shore, you get a sense that for a little while, he found exactly that.

Well, Dave got his workout just now, which is nice, right?

- Yeah, yeah.

- [Jeff] While we had to sit here like schmucks and shoot him havin' all the fun.

But it was good.

Dave never usually gets to go do the fun stuff like this, and he got to go.

Dave loves to kayak.

- [Zack] He looks very relaxed.

- [Jeff] He's very good.

Dave looks like he had a good paddle.

- [Dave] That was great.

(Jeff laughing) - [Dave] It did get a little choppy out there.

- [Jeff] Yeah.

Dave had a good, Dave had a really good paddle just now, and got a cool little protected harbor here.

Now getting outta the boat's another thing.

I'm not gonna film that, Dave.

Don't worry.

(ambling music) The next part of our adventure on Palmizana starts out a little wonky.

We weren't given clear instructions about where we were going for lunch, how to get there, and most importantly, we didn't fully understand the incredible backstory on the family and the eclectic resort and restaurant we were about to experience.

This looks like where we wanna go now.

Yeah.

Do we go?

- [Zack] Yeah.

- [Jeff] Which way?

- [Zack] No arrow.

- [Jeff] There's a sign with no arrow.

This looks like where we go up through the two red posts.

After a maze of wrong turns and sun-baked dead ends, with the Adriatic heat pressing down, and the steady pulse of cicadas filling the salty air, we stumble into a place that feels like it's been waiting for us all along.

The Palmizana Meneghello is a family resort dating back to 1906 on this island, and right away we are exposed to its dynamic culture, interesting art decor, and uniquely unforgettable owner, Romina Meneghello.

Hello.

- [Romina] Are you looking for me?

- [Jeff] Are you Romina?

- Yes, hi.

- [Jeff] Romina, I'm Jeff.

- Hi.

- [Jeff] Nice to meet you.

Hi, Romina, this is Zack.

(Romina greeting Zach and Dave) And Dave.

- [Dave] Hi.

- [Jeff] Okay, we're in the right place.

- You are in the right place.

You like first to sit, have a drink?

- [Jeff] Yes.

- And then I come to you, then you will tell me what you need.

- [Jeff] Okay.

(Romina speaking Croatian) That sounds great.

Thank you.

- Okay.

- [Jeff] Palmizana is a settlement on the Pakleni Island of Sveti Klement, the largest in the Pakleni archipelago.

Professor Eugen Meneghello settled here in 1906, and envisioned changing this rocky, barren island into a lush garden and sanctuary.

For over a century now, the Meneghello family has sculpted this landscape into a verdant paradise teeming with exotic plants and trees from around the globe.

Their dedication has cultivated not just a botanical haven, but a lush paradise where art, culture, and expert cuisine converge under the stewardship of Romina.

After a short break to recharge our batteries and enjoy some great local wine, it's time to meet Romina in the outdoor kitchen with her team of chefs to prepare a traditional fish stew on the fire.

What's your name?

- Brocco - [Jeff] Brocco, I'm Jeff.

- Nice to meet you, Jeff.

- I promise you that I will show you our famous dish in this restaurant is gregada.

Gregada came from the Venetian word aggregada which mean "put in."

So the fishermen, they have always on the boat, some fish, and some prawns, an onion, potatoes, some olive oil, some wine.

And then when they sell the fish, they leave always something and put in a pot and on the fire, and then you have gregada.

Only the difference about the gregada in our restaurant and the fishermen's gregada, is we put the best fish in the gregada.

So we don't put only these leftovers, we put real fish.

I think that's enough for them.

(Romina speaking Croatian) So we'll put for the fish is enough.

- [Jeff] You don't know how much Zack eats.

(all laughing) - [Zack] I'm embarrassed.

I'm prepared.

I hope you guys are.

- This one will be for Zack, and we'll prepare a completely different one for you two.

(all laughing) We'll do another one.

- [Jeff] You must watch the show.

(elegant music) As the scent of the gregada rises from the open fire, we wander the quiet grounds of the Palmizana Meneghello resort.

So the white villa, if you are lucky enough to get the white villa, this is your view at the white villa.

Your own private balcony.

- My father was not a young father.

(laughing) He got us when he was already 46.

So yes, when we were small, we grew up here on the island with my father and with my mother, who was a young journalist from Zagreb who came to live here with my father, and who brought, you will see here lots of art.

So that is the part what my mother brought on the island.

That's her property, but it's not hers.

She's not artist; she's collector.

- [Jeff] Got it.

- She's collector and helping young artists.

And some artists now are not alive anymore, or they're old, but when she started to help them, they was young and not famous.

And now lots of them are famous, yes.

- [Jeff] Here, only a few miles from the high energy and constant motion of Hvar Town, time seems to slow.

The wind softens, the sea settles, and the simple beauty of this island wraps itself around you.

The people of Hvar and the Pakleni Islands have welcomed us, not as tourists, but as friends, with a warmth and generosity that has defined every step of this journey.

Romina, in her quiet way, captures that spirit completely.

Through the stories she shares, the legacy she protects, and the table she so graciously sets for those who arrive here.

She reminds us of what makes this corner of the Adriatic so unforgettable.

It's not just the landscapes, the history, or the beauty.

It's the people who call it home.

(guests laughing) Again, you never know.

When I woke up this morning, I had no idea we were coming here.

We knew we were gonna come to this island.

We knew we were gonna shoot a little bit of kayaking.

We knew we were gonna have lunch on the island.

That's all we were told.

And the magnitude of what we just experienced, and what we just tasted, and what we just learned, and felt is, I'm saying it over and over again.

It's what makes travel great, man.

Getting to know other people, their stories, their lives, and share it through amazing food cooked in traditional ways like we just did.

All of it makes this trip to Croatia, to Hvar, and to the Pakleni Islands where we are now, something I'll never forget.

(gentle music) (gritty music) Back across the channel, we return to Hvar Town, where even as summer begins to fade, the streets still hum with life.

The stone-paved alleyways twist and turn like a maze, leading to tucked away cafes, small shops, and the glow of the late-day sun bouncing off centuries-old walls.

There's a buzz here.

A mix of locals settling back into their rhythm and travelers savoring the last warm days of the season.

From the harbor, I set my sights on the fortress that watches over it all.

The climb is steep, but worth every step.

All right, so we made it to the top.

Well, not we.

The boys are still coming up.

I got up here before they did.

We've been kind of split up doing our own thing today.

You can see the fort walls right behind me.

You can see the town of Hvar down below.

Perfect.

At the top, Hvar reveals itself in full.

Terracotta rooftops, sailboats dotting the bay, and the winding streets below, weaving their story into the fabric of this timeless island.

From up here, you can feel it.

Hvar isn't just surviving the end of summer, it's thriving in it.

Back down from the fortress and into the heart of Hvar Town.

There's a deep sense of pride here.

Pride not just in the beauty of the island, but in the remarkable people who have called it home.

One of them is Ivan Vucetic, a name you may not know, but whose contribution to the world is unforgettable.

In the late 1800s, it was Vucetic who pioneered the use of fingerprinting to solve crimes, a breakthrough that would forever change forensic science.

- He started working in the police station.

Inside the police station, they saw that he has potential.

So he was growing in his ranks very fast.

And one day the the chief of the police came across a article from Charles Darwin's cousin about fingerprints, but more from a natural perspective.

And he got really intrigued in the topic and he explored, and he figured out a way how to use fingerprints in ID.

So this was back in 1891.

- [Jeff] To celebrate the achievement of Vucetic, Tonci Trbuhovic converted this old stone wine barrel-making cellar into the Museum of Mystery.

He's done a great job of collecting, preserving, and showcasing the life and work of the man who invented fingerprinting, a breakthrough crime-fighting tool that changed the world.

(engine droning) This afternoon, our journey takes us back to the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where olive trees have flourished here for over 2,400 years.

Introduced by Greek settlers in 384 BC, these groves stand as living testaments to Hvar's enduring relationship with olive cultivation.

(gentle guitar music) Here, amid young groves of olive trees heavy with ripening fruit, we meet local olive oil producer Toma Makjanic.

His passion and craftsmanship have propelled Croatian olive oil to global acclaim.

His dedication not only preserves ancient traditions, but also brings the distinct flavors of Hvar to tables around the world.

Okay, so olive oil-making, take me through the process of, if you had to break it down into the simplest description, what's the steps?

What do you have to do to make a good olive oil?

- First of all, I want to explain that not every olive farmer is a good olive oil producer.

So there is a big difference because many people lack the feeling of olive oil, and it is very important in the production of olive oil.

You have to know each cultivar, your soil, your micro location where you have your orchard.

These are very important things to know because every cultivar variety has a different olive oil profile.

So in case you are making a blend, you have to know what you are doing because one has a strong aromas, like fruity aromas, other one has a bitterness, the other one is more spicy.

And the best olive oil is one that is balanced, that has a harmony of all these flavors.

And you can feel everything, but nothing is too much.

- [Jeff] Toma's gifts for transforming the olives these ancient fields provide into top shelf olive oil has earned him the top awards in the industry for his work.

- [Toma] You can try your olive oil with cheese like this.

- [Jeff] What do you think?

Did the guy that make that knows what he's doing?

- Probably.

(all laughing) (mid-tempo guitar music) - [Jeff] After several visits to this remarkable country, it's safe to say we've fallen in love with Croatia.

The ancient cities, the stone streets polished smooth by generations of footsteps, the food, the weather, they've all carved out a permanent place in our hearts.

But this journey to Hvar has shown us something more.

This island is a blend, a place where modern international energy hums through the harbor of Hvar Town, while just over the hill, the quiet beauty of Stari Grad and the ancient fields of the Stari Grad Plain still breathe with the rhythm of the past.

Yet as always, Croatia greatest treasure isn't found in its landscapes, or even its history.

It's the people, the generosity, the warmth.

The immediate sense of friendship that you feel here is rare.

- Tada!

- [Jeff] That is a great way to end our little journey here.

- Called the harbor.

- [Jeff] Beautiful.

It's as if every conversation is with an old friend you just haven't seen in a while.

That is what stays with us long after the cameras are packed away.

And maybe that's the lesson this place leaves with us.

In photography, we're always chasing the perfect light, the perfect frame, hoping to capture something timeless.

But here on the island, it's the human connections, the laughter, the shared meals, the stories told under olive trees that are the true images worth holding onto.

Moments you don't just capture, but carry with you forever.

(mellow folk music) - [Announcer] Production funding for "Outside: Beyond the Lens" provided by: visit Fresno County, home to unique attractions.

California's fifth largest city, and easy access to three nearby national parks.

By Advance Beverage Company, serving Bakersfield and Kern County for over 50 years.

By Hedrick's Chevrolet.

- We are proud to support the spirit of travel in each of us.

Every journey has a first step.

Adventures start here.

- [Announcer] By Hodge's Electric, Inc. Over five decades of delivering innovative solutions for residential, agricultural, and battery storage systems.

By the Penstar Group.

Promoting opportunity and growth for the future.

By Central California's Valley Children's Healthcare.

Futures worth fighting for.

By A-Plus Signs.

We never stop innovating for you.

And by Valley Air Conditioning and Repair.

Family-owned and trusted for over 50 years.

Proud to support public television and the wonders of travel.

(musical flourish)